Boulevard of National Martyrs
Heading south from Skanderbeg Square is the “Boulevard of National Martyrs” (Bulevard Dëshmorët e Kombit and Blloku). The first major sight is the National Art Gallery, which is well worth visiting for its renowned icons by Onufri, and a collection of Socialist Realist paintings. On the parallel road, Ibrahim Rugova, there’s the space-age Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, which is particularly striking at night. South of here, the pleasant green verges of the Lana are a good place to get a handle on some of Tirana’s famed colourful buildings. South of the river, any road to the west will take you to the Blloku district, while on the opposite side is the distinctive Pyramid. Apparently designed by Hoxha’s daughter (a disputed assertion), it first functioned as a museum dedicated to the leader, and then as a conference centre; it’s now dilapidated and defunct, though locals are fond of scaling its walls with a beer in hand. Continuing south, opposite the imposing former Communist Party HQ (now the Prime Minister’s residence), the 2013 PostBlloku monument provides an overdue memorial to the years of Cold War brutality: a restored concrete bunker (see box above) stands alongside a segment of the Berlin Wall and supports from a mine at Albania’s notorious Spaç forced labour camp. Walking south again, grandiose buildings rise up on either side of you until you emerge in Mother Teresa Square, home to a passable Archeological Museum (Mon–Fri 10.30am–2.30pm; 100L).
Skanderbeg Square
All roads in Tirana lead to Skanderbeg Square, centrepoint of the city and, therefore, the nation as a whole ,arked at its southern end by an equestrian statue of national hero Skanderbeg, who led the ultimately unsuccessful resistance to fifteenth-century Ottoman invasions. The imposing National History Museum sits at the north side of the square and is worth a quick visit, particularly for its coverage of Hoxha's concentration camps..
Heading clockwise around the square you’ll find the Palace of Culture, which houses the National Theatre of Opera and Ballet. Then comes the pretty Et’hem Bey Mosque (daily 8am–11pm except during prayer times),which was closed off during Communist rule; one sunny day in 1991, thousands flocked here to make use of their new-found religious freedom. Right next door is the tall clock tower, which can be climbed for views of the square.
The Grand Park
South of the Archeological Museum, though you'll need to curl west around the hill for access, is Tirana's Grand Park, whose main feature is an artificial lake around which the Tiranese come for a spot of relaxation. Its population of tiny fish will munch the dead skin from your feet – a treatment you’d pay good money for elsewhere – but avoid swimming since villages on the far side of the lake empty their sewage into the waters. Note, too, that although the surrounding forest is full of beautiful fireflies come dusk, it also has snakes.
Accommodation
There are now a decent range of backpacker hostels, many of which offer city tours (try Hostel Albania, Freddy's or Tirana Backpackers), as well as a few new guesthouses and B&BS (try Tirana Smile or Capital).
